Walter Bonatti, King of the Alps

The life of Canadian mountain climber Marc-André Leclerc as he pushes the boundaries of climbing while on an expedition to Patagonia.

In 2019, Nepalese mountain climber Nirmal “Nims” Purja set out to do the unthinkable by climbing the world’s fourteen highest summits in less than seven months. (The previous record was eight years). He called the effort “Project Possible 14/7” and saw it as a way to inspire others to strive for greater heights in any pursuit. The film follows his team as they seek to defy naysayers and push the limits of human endurance.

The second episode of the 2 part series 'Everest: Mountain of Dreams, Mountain of Doom', explores the triumphant (and tragic) expeditions of the modern era and takes an in-depth view of the terrible events of 1996, the deadliest year in the history of Mount Everest. From George Mallory to the 1996 tragedy, the series explores the major personalities and expeditions covering an 80-year span. The first episode, titled 'The Quest', includes the incredible stories of the early climbers, including George Leigh Mallory and Sir Edmund Hillary's legendary summit climb, and much more.

Les Parois de la Mémoire – Le Pilier Central du Frêney is a 25-minute documentary film directed by Jérôme Equer in 1994 and broadcast on the FR3 weekly program Montagne. The film highlights the tragic story of the July 1961 attempt to climb the Frêney Central Pillar (on the Italian side of Mont Blanc), during which a Franco-Italian team—led notably by Pierre Mazeaud and Walter Bonatti—was trapped by a violent, multi-day storm of exceptional intensity, resulting in a tragic retreat and the deaths of four of the seven climbers. It draws on archival footage, excerpts from Lothar Brandler’s film Inferno am Montblanc, and firsthand accounts from the participants, including mountaineer and politician Pierre Mazeaud.

Record of the first ascent of Everest made without the use of oxygen equipment, made in May 1978 by Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler. Could it be done? Would their blood vessels burst? Would they suffer brain damage leading to madness? Nobody was sure. Messner: 'I would never come here for trying Everest with oxygen. That is not a challenge for me.' A fascinating piece of history, well filmed by Leo Dickinson and Eric Jones (above the South Col Messner used a cine camera to continue the filming), featuring Messner and Habeler's thoughts. The film follows the usual sequence from Namche to Base Camp, through the Icefall, to Camps I, II and III. It also shows historical footage of the pioneering Mallory and Shipton expeditions.

Matteo Righetto, a writer, prompts us, through his reflections, to consider the meaning of the mountains and how to experience them. Can the mountains teach us something different?

The documentary film Art of Freedom answers the most poignant questions on the phenomenon of Polish expeditions to the Himalayas. Poles have reigned the highest mountaintops of the world for more than 20 years. They not only set down new trails, but new rules of behavior. They set themselves apart with an original style of climbing, endurance, conscientiousness about the overall well-being of the team - and solidarity.

Born in 1944 in South Tyrol, Reinhold Messner was introduced to climbing peaks by his father as a child. He has since climbed the fourteen mountains of the world culminating at more than 8,000 meters, and notably has to his credit the first ascent of Everest alone and without oxygen in 1980. This portrait is made up of the story given by mountaineer of his journey as well as testimonies from his loved ones and traveling companions. The interviews are interspersed with reconstructed scenes and extracts from archive films recounting his exploits. But there is no question here of becoming hagiographic, because Messner also draws his strength from his failures. When he's not climbing or roaming the desert, this troublemaker devotes his energy to various causes. In his Juval castle, located in his native South Tyrol, he exhibits the equipment of his expeditions as well as various objects, notably Tibetan. He has also written around fifty works to date.

In October 2010, two of France's top mountaineers, Christophe Dumarest and Yann Borgnet, fulfilled a mountaineer's dream: a six-day alpine-style ascent of Walter Bonatti's great routes through the Mont Blanc massif. Dumarest and Borgnet first climbed the north face of the Grandes Jorasses; they then climbed the Grand Capucin and the Pilier Rouge du Brouillard, completing their feat with the ascent of Mont Blanc. Their paragliding descent in Chamonix completes their feat with a touch of fun. The climbers and the director made the ethical choice not to use helicopters to shoot the film.

After the successful conquest of Everest in 1953, two Italians reach the summit of K2, the second highest mountain in the world, the next year,after careful preparation and the formation of the team of climbers, scientists, and porters.

In 1961 the southern face of the Central Pillar of Mont Blanc was still unclimbed. Two roped parties of climbers decided to come together to attempt to open a new route. Four days of violent storms caught the climbers just 80 metres from the summit. Of the seven climbers, only three returned home. One of the most intense and dramatic events in the history of climbing relives on the big screen, thanks to accounts and images of the feat.

On July 11, 1961, a rope team of seven men—led by the Italian Walter Bonatti and the Frenchman Pierre Mazeaud—set out to scale the Frêney Pillar on the south face of Mont Blanc. After days of grueling effort—and just as they were nearing their goal—they were trapped by a violent storm. Stranded at an altitude of over 4,500 meters in temperatures of minus 20 degrees, the seven climbers were forced to bivouac in hellish conditions. Exhausted, spent, and with one of their number injured, they displayed extraordinary solidarity, exemplary courage, and a determination that commands respect right to the very end. Yet the mountain proved cruel. Lost in fog, blinded by the darkness, and gripped by the cold, four of the seven climbers perished from exhaustion after a perilous five-day, five-night ordeal in hell. Only three made it down alive, including the Italian Walter Bonatti and the Frenchman Pierre Mazeaud.

The film analyzes the brilliant if tragically short career and tempestuous personal life of Scottish mountaineer Dougal Haston (1940-77). Haston gained fame with the first ascent of 'The Bat' in 1959. He went on to make his name as a mountaineer in the Alps and greater ranges. In 1966 he was part of the team that made the first winter ascent of the Eiger Nordwand. He also achieved the first ascent of the South West face of Mount Everest in September 1975. Haston was the Director of the International School of Mountaineering in Leysin, Switzerland. He was killed in an avalanche in Leysin, Switzerland in 1977. Interviews and original footage give an insight into an iconic legend.

K2 Chasing Shadows chronicles Benjamin Védrines' record-breaking 2024 ascent of K2 (8,611m) in 10 hours, 59 minutes, and 59 seconds, without supplemental oxygen: a story that unfolds as much in the mind as on the mountain. In human exploration, each boundary pushed awakens a new thirst. Each feat paves the way for a deeper quest. It is this tension between extreme performance and inner aspiration that drives K2 Chasing Shadows. For Benjamin Védrines, it is a journey of humility, resilience, and a search for meaning amidst the raw beauty of the Pakistani Karakoram. The film exposes the physical demands of a formidable summit, while also exploring fear, loss, and the perilous nature of dreams that demand total commitment. Between unforeseen obstacles, forced retreats and new attempts, Védrines faces the most trying and exhilarating aspects of mountaineering, constantly questioning where true accomplishment lies.

Re-enactment of the attempt made in July 1961 by a french-italian group in order to climb Freney Pillar, in Mont Blanc massif. The expedition was composed by the frenchmen Pierre Mazaud, Robert Guillaume, Pierre Kohlmann and Antoine Vieille and by the italians Walter Bonatti, Andrea Oggioni e Roberto Gallieni. The groups arrived separatly to the camp of Col de la Fourche, but with the same aim. They united by chance to conquest the famous peak. The attempt is crushed by bad wheather and, during the descent, three French and an Italian will die.

Giusto Gervasutti (1909-1946) was an Italian mountaineer, considered by many to be the best mountaineer of his generation and one of the greatest of the post-war era. He achieved his first feats in 1930 and revolutionized mountaineering in the Western Alps by repeating and opening routes of extreme difficulty that are still considered absolute routes today: the east face of the Grandes Jorasses (with his friend Boccalatte), the northeast spur of the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, the north face of the Grandes Jorasses, the Gervasutti route on the Gugliermina, the east face of Mont Blanc du Tacul (where he died in 1946), among an incredible list of climbs. The film, made to mark the centenary of Giusto Gervasutti's birth, portrays a solitary and tormented mountaineer, endowed with an impeccable moral sense, an advocate of light and ethical mountaineering, always in search of an unattainable happiness.

The plot concerns a yeti who makes a pact with the devil to kidnap the most beautiful girl in the world. This turns out to be the Princess Lissi, who is clearly the Austrian Princess and later Empress Elisabeth of Bavaria, and much of the film is taken up with subplots related to the court and to the romantic relationship between Elisabeth and her husband. The film is thus a comic parody of the Sissi films.

A meeting of two world famous climbers, one an experienced mountaineer the other a sport climber, and a journalist (Ivan) results in a bet on which of the two is the best climber. Roger (the mountaineering expert) states that Martin (the sport climber) wouldn't survive a day on a 'real' climbing expedition, although he is considered to be the world's best sport climber (having just won an indoor 'world championship,' an event depicted in the opening scene). They plan to climb 'Cerro Torre,' in the Patagonia region of South America, near the Argentinian/Chilean border, one of the world's most difficult mountains, especially considering the extreme weather conditions common to the area.